A mention of the word rainforest conjures up mental images of
exotic flora and fauna. While this is true of a tropical rainforest, a
temperate rainforest is a markedly different biome. As the name suggests, these
rainforests exist in the temperate regions of the world - between the tropics
and the arctic regions. Largest concentrations of temperate rainforests are
found in the western coastal region of North America stretching from Washington
to Alaska with other notable regions being found in southern coast of Chile,
and western coasts of New Zealand and Tasmania in Australia. Perhaps the most
well-known and accessible of such rainforests are those protected by the United
States National Parks system at the Olympic National Park in Washington state
around the Hoh, Quinault and Queets rivers.
Unlike tropical rainforests, temperate rainforests have marked seasonal
variations. Cool winters reduce the number of different life forms that habit
these rainforests, resulting in a less complex ecology. These regions receive
very heavy rainfall and as a result, biomass per acre in a temperate rainforest
(roughly about 200 lb per square yard) is higher than in a tropical rainforest.
The mild climate coupled with very generous rainfall enables trees such as the
Western Red Cedar, Western Hemlock and Broadleaf Maples to grow to gigantic
sizes, unfortunately also making them very valuable timber lands - about 44% of
North America's original temperate rainforest lands have now been lost to
development. Common sights in these rainforests are fallen "nurse" logs that
nurture new seedlings and resut in "colonnades" or rows of trees that got their
start on a single nurse log. If a tree got its start on top of a broken tree
stump, as the stump decays, it leaves the roots exposed, giving the appearance
of a tree on stilts.
Quinault rainforest is less known and visited than the Hoh rainforest. Portions
of this rainforest lie within the National Forest lands. Mosses and lichens
drape the maples, forming a microcosm for plant growth, particularly ferns.
This locale's fauna includes Deer, Elk, Mountain Lions, Bears, Bald Eagles and
the largest slugs in North America, the Banana Slug. Particularly in the winter
off-season, one can pretty much have this rainforest all to themselves. Infact,
I prefer the off-season for photographing these forests because the heavier
rains during this season thoroughly drench the trees, giving them more
saturated colors.
On this trip during the last week of February, we explored the
regions around the lake, using Lake Quinault Lodge as our base and for
accomodation. On August 28, 1924 a 32-room hotel built in this area in 1912
went up in flames when a defective flue leading from the kitchen range caught
fire. Subsequently, this rustic lodge was designed by Robert Reamer, a Seattle
architect who had previously designed the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone in
1903. The lodge, built in a record time of 53 days and opened to the public on
August 18, 1926, is an ideal getaway from urban life but with all the basic
amenities and activities. Views of the lake are marvellous from just about
anywhere in the Roosevelt dining room. Across the south shore road from the
lodge is the Quinault Mercantile, built in 1918 and still in use today as a
mini grocery mart.
GETTING HERE: Drive on US 101 in the Olympic peninsula between Forks and
Aberdeen to milepost 125. Turn east on to South Shore Road.
Within 1.5 miles, you will arrive at the Quinault Rainforest trailhead. I
highly recommend exploring the nature loop trail (#855); it gives the
first-time visitor a very good and easy introduction to a temperate rainforest.
Hiking in a clockwise direction, the first 1/2 mile of the trail is barrier
free and wheelchair accessible. Very near the trailhead is an imposing 400 year
old Cedar tree with a viewing platform constructed around the base of its
trunk. Just past the tree, a trail branches to the left, crosses Willaby creek
and leads to the Lake Quinault lodge. The main loop trail continues on a cliff,
flanked on both sides by old, tall trees and beatiful maidenhear fern. Where
the flora blocks views of the cascading river down below, the gurgling sounds
betrays its presence. Halfway through the loop, you will come upon an
informational hut and a junction in the trail. Turn right to complete the loop.
Just before this junction, look to your right for a view of a new tree growing
on a nurse log. The dark exposed roots of the new tree is in stark contrast
with the brownish nurse log.
Continuing eastwards on the South Shore road, within a mile or so, you will
find Lake Quinault Lodge and the National Forest Ranger Station. A ranger told
us the freezing cold early next morning that she had just encountered, on her
way driving in to work, a small herd of Roosevelt Elk (Cervus elaphus)
in a clearing right beside the road, a few miles east. Unfortunately, they were
gone by the time we visited that area.
Just past milepost 6, you will arrive at a bridge and a small parking lot
beyond. On the right side of the road is photogenic Merriman falls. Pavement
soon ends and the road follows quinault river on the south side. Moss covered
Red Alder becomes a common sight on either sides of road, which soon turns into
a single lane lane with turnouts, entering national park lands. You definitely
have to watch out for massive potholes but atleast the road is devoid of
washboarding. At the point where a left turn heads on a bridge over the
Quinault river, head straight. Fine views of stands of Red Alder on the
opposite side of the river and other stretches flanked by broadsword fern and
heavily moss draped trees makes navigating the degraded road worth the hassle.
In 6 more miles, the road ends past the Graves creek ranger station at the
campground. Graves Creek Nature Trail is a one-mile loop trail starting at the
far end of the campground loop. At this time of the year, vegetation was
overgrown over the trail. Since we were alone in Cougar territory and were
travelling with a small child, we decided to skip this trail. If you are in the
mood for a longer hike in this area, try the Enchanted Valley trail.
Retracing our path on the South Shore road, we turned right and crossed the
bridge over Quinault river, turning left on North Shore road. The road winds
through Red Alder and soon becomes narrow and winding. During the climb up a
cliff, this is pretty much a single lane road with occasional pulluots.
Fortunately, being off-season we did not encounter a single vehicle in the
opposite direction. Soon the road levels out and after winding its way through
fine swathes of broadsword ferns on both sides of road, it turns into paved
road and you start seeing signs of civilization. Quinault river ranger station
soon comes up on the right, before crossing over Kestner creek.
Kestner homestead loop trail starts at the ranger station. This is a flat,
wheelchair accessible trail, paralleling Kestner creek on the south side. As we
negotiated a bend near the Kestner Quigley homestead area, we suddenly
encountered a large herd of elk in the clearing. Being highly wary by nature,
the elk heard us coming and started scampering into the nearby forest. At the
edge of the forest, they waited and observed us. We hiked through the
homestead, past abandoned trucks and farm equipment and entered the same forest
in which the elk had previously hidden. For the next third of a mile, we could
still see them through the foliage, watching our movements. Soon, the trail
branches to the left, meeting the easy 1/2 mile Maple Glade loop trail. A
boardwalk leads past massive trees and a swamp filled with skunk cabbage that
was starting to bloom at this time.
Continuing on the North Shore road, you pass Locherie resort on your left and
then the July creek picnic area. Almost directly across the road from Lake
Quinault Resort is the 0.2 mile Big cedar trail. The tree is estimated to be
2000 years old and despite a huge cavity in the trunk that is big enough to
hide a minivan, it is still alive. Even more amazing is that a 10 feet tall
hemlock tree is currently growing at its top!
IF YOU GO: Here are some links that will help you plan your trip